Happy Thanksgiving! I sent my family and friends a few
messages before leaving early (9am) for the Masseria Cardilli in Campania. The
program understands that Italians don’t celebrate Thanksgiving since it’s an
American holiday. (If pilgrims landed in Italy, it would be a different story.)
So the administration thought it would be a great idea to celebrate it at this
facility near the Bay of Naples. (It’s about 3 hours from the Bay of Naples,
but worth the trip.) This is the place where Italians make their buffalo
mozzarella – the REAL place.
Now I didn’t know what to expect when I walked in, but I
have to start off by saying that walking into this space was equivalent to
having a diaper of sour cheese thrown at your face – the smell was THAT strong,
granted it IS where they make their famous buffalo mozzarella. We watched the
workers take the large balls of fresh mozzarella and put them into plastic bags
with salt water – this is how they keep them fresh, and often the reason why
REAL mozzarella in the stores looks like it’s in a watery container. Since the
facility is practically a farm with buffalo, we went around petting the
buffalo. They also had geese who were super mouthy and apparently don’t like
people. They were yelling at all of us when we walked by. They had roosters,
ducks, peacocks, etc. We really got our hands dirty and had to wash up before
our 4 course lunch. After we were done exploring the facility area and finished
with the overwhelmingly-informative tour, we sat down to our huge Thanksgiving
feast in Campania, with local specialties, produce, meats and – yes – cheese.
Lots of food.
So here was the menu:
Water
Appetizers = meats, cheeses, peppers, spinach, ricotta with
honey
Primo Piatto (First Plate) = gnocchi (they gave me gluten
free pasta) with cheese, meat and red sauce
Secondo Piatto (Second Plate) = huge sausages with potatoes
Fruit dish
Dessert = tiramisu (they gave me pannacotta with
blueberries)
Fun fact: if you don’t know what to order for dessert and
you can deal with yogurt-ish substances, pannacotta is always a good choice –
always. And sometimes they come with different things on top: chocolate,
caramel, berries, etc.
After the lunch, we explored more of the area, which
included more animals (huge pigs, bunnies, a cute dog, and more) and a little
playground in the back of the restaurant. Then we all got on the bus with full
tummies and sat for 3 hours on our way to Sorrento – WHICH IS PROABLY THE MOST
BEAUTIFUL PLACE IN ITALY. We slept soundly and got to the hotel in Sorrento that
night, just in time for dinner – more food. But first we took our things to our
hotel rooms and OMG the view was gorgeous, even in the dark.
So here’s my opinion on the weekend: I did some research on
my family history because I DO have a little Italian in me, I just don’t know
where it comes from. Usually people know whether they’re from North Italy,
South Italy, or Rome – those are usually the 3 parts. Since I barely know where
I come from, I did some summer research before coming here. Apparently my father’s
mother’s side (the slight Italian part of me) is neopolitano – Neopolitan (from
Naples). So when I got to Sorrento and Bay of Naples, I kept thinking, Maybe I’ll “fit in” here. Maybe there will
be some huge sign screaming that I belong here, that my family has some old
history here. And when I looked at that view from the hotel room, I knew –
it’s the water.
Let me clarify – I’m a water fan. I’ve always been a water
child – running around in sprinklers outside, a natural swimmer, and I
practically scream “mermaid” with my red hair and blue eyes (which, by the way,
are both Sicilian and Neopolitan traits). Everything about me points to the
water, that’s just how I’ve always been.
Aside from being a “water child”, I love gnocchi – love it. I’m
going to cry if I don’t find it at home. I’ve noticed since coming here that
everyone immediately picked a special dish that they call their favorite or
that is their “Italian comfort food”. Gnocchi is mine. Why? Well for starters,
it’s potato – not pasta. Though apparently, one of the ingredients is something
with whey protein which is why they kept it away from me in Campania – and that
makes no sense at all to me, so I’m still doing research on it. But there IS
gluten free gnocchi. Anyway, “gnocchi” is a dish that’s from – guess where – Naples,
which I learned WAY after this trip. Without any clues, hints, or knowledge
about the “region’s dish” from where my Italian ancestry came from, I literally
pinned it. Gnocchi, the neopolitano dish of the region – more specifically,
gnocchi alla sorrentino (gnocchi with red sauce, tomatoes, basil and cheese).
Not only that, but limoncello is also one of my favorite
drinks – which is another Bay of Naples specialty. The water areas, from
Sorrento to Amalfi, all specialize in lemons and other citrus. Generally in the
Bay of Naples area, citrus is a special product – and from this citrus comes my
buddy, limoncello, which I also randomly decided was another favorite of mine. And
both just happen to be from the area my Italian ancestors came from.
That was just meant to be.
So the hotel view in Sorrento – I was on the 4th
floor with my awesome roommate. In the suite was a huge TV, our own balcony
with a table and chairs, A BATH, and an amazing view of the water. All of the
special places to go and hotels to stay in on the Bay of Naples are literally
on the sides of cliffs. I just made it a lot scarier than it actually is, but
that’s the only way I can describe it. If you were to take the side of a cliff
and put windows in it, those are essentially the hotels on the Bay of Naples. If
you want to get to the water, just be extremely careful because you have to
climb up/down steep steps that continue for maybe 80 feet.
The view was gorgeous and I couldn’t wait to see it when the
sun came up. The streetlights were shining on the water, where little boats
were docked. It was so peaceful and you could hear the waves moving. There was
a solid horizontal line of lights coming from islands across from Sorrento. It
was beautiful and absolutely romantic.
We had to go to dinner – which was another 3 or 4 course
long stuffing. But I survived. The faculty wanted to go out and explore the
town so after dinner, I relaxed a bit and went downstairs to meet with everyone
going out to explore. There were two bars they suggested going to – a place
called the English Inn and an Irish Pub. The hotel wasn’t even a long walk from
the main street. We walked in a U shape, past a little shrine of Mary with a
waterfall, and another 2-3 blocks. The bars were across the street from each
other. The Irish Pub looked more inviting and the faculty even said they
thought it was better than the English Pub. So I bought myself a Magners (a
drink you need to try, I have no idea if they exist in the US – it’s alcoholic
cider, delicious) and sat down with friends. It was a great night, the owner
and his wife were really talkative, and there were other Americans there
watching the special Thanksgiving NFL games. My friends and I just sat around
talking until we finished our drinks, then headed back to the hotel to bed.
11/23 – Friday
I thought the view was beautiful at night, but when I got up
and ready for breakfast, my jaw dropped. I sat through breakfast in the hotel
watching the sunrise over the water. Since the restaurant area of the hotel was
on the 7th floor, it was the perfect place to watch outside. The
Sorrento morning is different colors – pinks, purples, and oranges. Then you
see the water evolve from silent and peaceful to busy and boat-loaded. It was
unreal.
After breakfast, we left for Naples to see the Naples
Archeological Museum which was really cool. After the Museum, we went to Pompeii,
which was even better. It was a long day and between driving all over the area
and walking around for hours, it was flat out exhausting.
If you ever go to the Museum, go to the Secret Room. As for
Pompeii, make sure you know that it’s “Penis Land”.
However, my friends wanted to explore the main square a
little more. I figured why not. So we walked all the way past the bars from the
night before, all the way down the main street to this huge center. There were
Christmas light everywhere with a ginormous Christmas tree in the center
square. Everyone was enjoying a meal outside, watching the final decorations
added to this Christmas tree. The faculty suggested a karaoke bar near the main
center of town – and we found it. First we went back to the Irish Pub for
drinks, limoncello shots, and some down time. Then we went to the karaoke bar,
bought some more drinks, and sang some great songs.
The Karaoke Bar was a lot of fun, but since we got there
early, it was only the 10 of us American students, the bar tender woman, and
the guy “DJ”. (“DJ” as in he was just playing youtube videos.) We looked
through a huge book of songs and almost all of us ended up singing and making
huge fools of ourselves. I will gladly admit that I sang a poor version of
Firework by Katy Perry with two other friends. However, everything that
happened after that – the Soulja Boy dancing, Cotton Eye Joe, etc – I refuse to
discuss.
It was a lot of fun though. The DJ turned on some fun things
we knew like Gangam Style and the Cha Cha Slide and the Cupid Shuffle. Unfortunately,
my friend took some very unattractive photos of me that night which I don’t
want to explain. But it was a great night.
11/24 – Saturday
(also Rosa’s Birthday!)
Today we had a free day. So after breakfast, I had nothing
to do for several hours. We were allowed to go where we wanted and do what we
wanted as long as we were at the group meeting place at the given time. Everyone
from CUA planned on going to either Paestum or Mount Vesuvius, and since I
didn’t care for either of those places, wanted to go to Capri or the Amalfi
Coast.
I ended up joining a huge group of Loyola students to go to
Capri. We went to the port to get tickets for the boat to take us to the island
and – after a huge debate about whether buying a two-way ticket was better – I
bought a two-way ticket. But that was where all the trouble started – only this
would happen to me…
I bought a two-way ticket for 33E because it was a better
deal than buying 2 one-way tickets – it made sense. I got on the boat after the
ticket-checker guy took my ticket and then he came on board. So I asked him, to
double check, that my ticket was a two-way ticket. He said no. The guy at the
ticket window didn’t give me a two-way ticket – he gave me a one-way ticket. Luckily,
two guys in my group were behind me at the window and could attest to my paying
33E and buying a two-way ticket. So I explained to the guy what happened and he
said to go with him. So I followed him.
Apparently, that’s where everything went right. I met the entire
ship crew, the captain, and made friends with a few other random guys on the
boat. They made some calls and told me not to worry about it. The guy that I
was following all over the boat was a tour guide, who was probably in his late
60s. He also had a friend, who looked significantly younger than him, named
Giovanni. He and Giovanni offered me and the group I was traveling with a 35E
deal which included a complete tour of Capri, Anacapri, entrance to the Blue
Grotto (which is 25E to begin with), private transportation, a lunch deal at a
great place, and a 5E deal to a chairlift that goes to the highest part of the
island of Capri. After doing financial calculations, a solid amount of the
group decided this is obviously a good deal – 35E, plus a 10E deal for lunch,
plus 5E for the chairlift.
Thanks to my ticket incident, we got a really great deal out
of the day. In the end, I spent 50E on the day (35E + 10E + 5E), but it was
well worth it. WORTH IT! AND I got on the boat to go back to Sorrento, thanked
my friendly ship crew, and went back to the hotel.
After I washed up, I went with some friends to mass at a
church in the town center. All the students went to a dinner show in Sorrento,
which reminded me of Medieval Times. It was a lot of fun, but I was tired from
the day so I got back to the hotel and went right to sleep.
11/25 – Sunday
NAPLES = THE DIRTIEST PLACE ON EARTH. Sorry, Naples. The
town of Naples looked like leftovers from a frat party pre-game…..x10000000. I’m
not even exaggerating. After breakfast and checking out of the hotel, we took
the bus to Naples and OMG. There were glass bottles all over the street,
garbage cans were overflowing, and cigarette butts were everywhere. Everything
was so dirty and I thought for maybe 10 seconds about what Rosa would do if she
saw this mess…
NAPLES = DON’T GO THERE ON BLACK SUNDAY. Granted – it WAS
Black Sunday when we went, and yes, that exists in Italy. Naples DOES have its
good qualities: a pastry called Baba’ that looks like a huge, rum-soaked,
penis; the Christmas Street, which is the main street where terracotta nativity
scenes are handmade (ridiculously expensive); the birthplace of pizza – I’ve never
seen so many pizzerias in my life.
The pizzerias only make pizza so I was basically kicked out
since I couldn’t eat it. They couldn’t even throw some lettuce and cheese
together to make me a salad. The Christmas Street took a solid 30-40 minutes to
walk through because it was so crowded. I also watched a fight break out 4 feet
from me while I was stuck in the crowd. Some guy thought another guy stole his
wallet and they started fighting…4 feet from me. Awkward.
Thank goodness we didn’t stay in Naples that long. It was
way too crowded to really enjoy and we took the bus back to Rome.
If there’s anything you need to know about this weekend
trip, it’s that the people in Naples are really REALLY mean when it comes to
driving and traffic (I got spat at by a vespa driver for not walking on the
sidewalk) and everything from the town of Naples to Pompeii is Penis Land.
PENIS LAND.
11/27 – Tuesday
For Roman History class, we went to the Baths of Diocletian.
I also had my last Italian presentation today.
11/28 – Wednesday
The last Italian class! I’ll miss ItaliaIdea.
11/29 – Thursday
For Philosophy, we went to the MAXXI in the pouring rain. POURING.
RAIN.
11/30 – 12/3 = Advent Break!
12/2 – Sunday
I went to mass at St. John’s for the First Week of Advent!
YAY!
Then went to a restaurant in Trastevere called Le Fate –
it’s a great place! If you ever go to Trastevere for dinner, you definitely
have to go there! Their student menu is 10E!
12/4 – Tuesday
The last Roman History class! We went to the Church of San
Clemente and went to the older 4th century parts underneath. It’s a
church on a church on a church – strange, but very interesting.
12/6 – Thursday
Happy St. Nicholas Day! Make sure you don’t forget to put
your shoes outside your door!
Since finals are next week, my life has been uneventful and
I’m spending most of my time studying my butt off. I go home in 10 days and I
still have so much to do!
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